Wood Furniture Staining

Editor: oldadk

Understand staining as a finishing option for your wood furniture. Here are some helpful tips to get a great finish for your furniture!

AU NATUREL

Are you ready to go "au naturel"? Well, it all depends on what kind of wood you are using, what kind of look you prefer and how you are using the furniture.

What Kind of Wood

Certain woods age and weather well, like teak, cedar and cypress. These species have natural oils and overall makeup that protect it from pests and the elements. Only these woods really have the option to go "au naturel." Most other woods need additives or finishing to protect them from the elements.

Pressure treated lumber, for example, has additives to enhance the wood's longevity, especially for use out of doors. Some of these additives can be pretty vile, like arsenic in pressure treated pine plywood.

What Kind of Look You Prefer

The Natural Look: If you like the natural, "just-milled" look:

• Keep its Natural State: this only works if you're using a resistant wood OR the furniture is to be used only indoors

• Light Polyurethane Finish: remember to re-apply this finish periodically based on the amount of exposure to sun and rain. Note: UV rays will tend to yellow a light wood, so remember that sun shining through a window will also affect the furniture's coloration.

The Gray Look: If you can wait 18 months, the resistant woods will gradually turn grey in coloration. If you really want that look right away, you can use a grey wash stain so the grain shows through.

Wood Grain: If you want a wood color (ex: light=cedar, medium=pine, dark=maple), you'll want a wood stain where the grain will show through.

Glossy Look: If you like a little gloss finish or topcoat, then you can apply a polyurethane over the stain. Or, it is possible to get a stain formulation with a polyurethane component, so you get stain and gloss.

Color: If you want a little color to spice things up, there are a couple options:

• Paint: To add color to non-resistant woods, you would need to apply paint. A primer can help seal the wood first. If you want a very smooth finish, you should apply two coats with a light sanding in between. Note: sometimes paint will chip with exposure to the elements.

• Stain: To add color to resistant woods, you can apply stain. Stain comes in many different versions these days:

• • Transparent: these stains show some amount of grain through the stain.

• • Opaque: these stains provide an opaque color surface, much like paint. You still may need to use 2 coats for lighter colors, since sometimes there is not enough color/pigment to cover the wood grain bleed. If you want a smooth surface, you will need to apply more than one coat with a light sanding in between.

• • With Polyurethane: these stains have some polyurethane component to the stain, so one coat of stain provides some level of gloss to the surface. For additional gloss, you can add a coat. If you want a smooth surface, you will need to apply more than one coat with a light sanding in between.

How You Are Using the Furniture

Do you need to finish your furniture?

Indoor Use: If you're using furniture only for indoor use, it is not necessary to finish your furniture. Some folks like a coat of polyurethane so that there's a bit of a finish to make it easier to dust or clean.

• Eating Surfaces: If you are using a dining table or the like, you should consider finishing at least the table top so that it can easily be cleaned, and so oils and food do not stain the wood.

• Wet Surfaces: If you are using furniture where it will come in frequent or repeated contact with wet things or liquids, you should consider finishing at least those portions that will be exposed to moisture.

Outdoor Use: If you are using a resistant wood (ex: cedar, teak, cypress), you do NOT need to apply a finish. However, non-resistant woods would require some protection from the elements.

TYPES OF FINISHES

Stains: Water-based stains will delay the weathering process, since they pnetrate the wood while allowing the wood to breathe. Outdoor products will usually require re-staining every year or so to maintain the desired look. While stains have traditionally allowed you to see grain through the tint, newer opaque stains provide a more solid color to furniture.

Paints: Paints provide a layer coat of color on furniture. When exposed to the elements for an extended period, paints can chip.

Polyurethanes: If using furniture where it will be exposed to rain and sun, you may desire to put a polyurethane finish on the furniture after it has been stained.

PREPARATION

The correct preparation helps the stain to adhere, given the wood’s porousness and reveal the wood’s grain. The product coverage depends on the wood’s porosity, grade and texture.

1. Read the label and instructions on the stain can label for specific information.
2. Use a drop cloth to protect any surfaces you many be working on. Work in a spacious, ventilated area.
3. When staining dowel ends, note that the ends are rougher and are usually darker in color. The rougher surfaces will wear down the sponge brushes sooner.
4. Separate parts of the furniture from the whole. For instance: remove any drawers from a dresser.
5. Sand the Furniture. Most unfinished pieces need additional fine sanding before staining. If the furniture has been in use or outside for a period of time before staining, it is best to lightly sand all surfaces before staining using a Sand Sponge. A Sand Sponge may be used on an unfinished product to smooth holes and remove stains or markings. ALWAYS SAND WITH THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD. Remove any loose wood fibers or dust.
6. Clean the Furniture. Use a Tack Cloth to remove excess wood dust.
7. Check the Stain Color. Use a piece of similar wood or find an "out of the way" spot on the furniture to test the stain to ensure the wood is absorbing it to attain the desired color. Let the stained sample dry and then inspect before continuing with the staining. Color cards and brochures can give you good approximations of color, but cannot duplicate exactly how a product will look on your particular product’s wood surface - only you can through experimentation.
8. Try to stain the furniture when temperatures range from 50° to 85° F. Humidity should be below 80%. Avoid staining outside during the hours of most intense sunlight. Direct sun coupled with a hot surface can cause stain to dry unevenly, affecting the finished look. If applying a water-base coating to wood that is hot to the touch, dampen with water to cool.
9. Do not apply stain to a product that has been recently outside in the rain. Water-soaked wood should dry out for 24 hours, so that it can absorb a stain properly. For best results, the product should also not be in rain for 24-48 hours after staining.
10. Do not over-stain. Wood pores are like a sponge. They can only absorb so much stain before becoming saturated, which may result in excess stain pooling on the wood surface and can weaken the product. Remove any stain drips or excess before they dry to make clean-up easier. Wet product can be cleaned up with fresh water in most cases. If product has dried, you may need to lightly sand the area and re-apply some stain as necessary.

STAINING STEPS

1. Stir your paint/stain. Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the "mud" so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up. To maintain an even color, stir the stain periodically during application.
2. Use a Foam Brush, stain the lower portions of the furniture first, working your way through the sides to the top. Stain can be applied in any direction, usually cross-grain first, but ending with the grain.
3. Stain one surface at a time. Stain the corners and uneven areas first, using a “full” brush to get full penetration. Then, spread the rest on the flat areas.
4. Let the wood dry (initial absorption takes about 15 minutes with a light coat).
5. Depending on the desired look, a second coat can be used to give a richer color depth and enhance the longevity of the stain. Use a Sanding Sponge to lightly touch up any rougher areas where you desire more stain to absorb before applying a second coat if desired. Remember to use a Wipe Cloth to remove any dust before applying a second coat of stain.

BRUSH TIPS

1. Dampen the brush before use. Stain will be less likely to dry on the brush.
2. Don't overload a brush with stain. The application will be smoother and less wasteful.
3. Stain with the brush at 45-degree angle to maximize the bristle's surface area.
4. For a better finish, stain from the area just painted towards the unpainted area. This is called "wet to dry."
5. Dip the Foam Brush one-third of the way into the stain; any deeper will waste stain. Lightly tap the side of the brush on the inside of the can to remove excess stain.
6. If you need to stop for an hour or so, wrap the brush in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and put it in, the refrigerator so it does not dry out.
7. Before cleaning, remove remaining stain by stroking the brush back and forth on newspaper. Then, rinse out remaining stain from the brush.
8. As you stain each area, you may want to use a Wipe Cloth to wipe with the grain to carefully remove excess stain, then move to another area. With White Cedar which absorbs quickly, you will not likely need to heavily wipe the stained areas.

Enjoy!

Categories: Home Improvement | Do-It-Yourself | Decorating