White Cedar Makes Great Furniture

Editor: oldadk

White Cedar is a great wood for indoor and outdoor furniture, because of its natural and environmentally sound characteristics. Learn More!

Overview

Thuja occidentalis

Northern White Cedar is one of nature’s most unusual woods. Because most cedar grows near swampy water basins, it has a slow rate of decay and a natural resiliency to rot and disease. White Cedar has a pleasant mild fragrance that acts as a mild insect repellent.

ECOLOGY

Northern White Cedar is an evergreen coniferous tree, considered to be part of the cypress family. It is native to the northeastern United States and Appalachian Mountains, as well as in southeastern Canada.

Unlike the closely related Western Red Cedar, White Cedar is only a small tree, 30-60 feet in height with small trunk diameter (1-2 feet). Its bark is red-brown and furrowed in vertical strips that easily peel away. It has unusual scale-like leaves and slender cones.

White Cedar grows naturally in wet forests, especially proliferate in swamps where other larger and faster-growing trees cannot compete successfully. It also occurs on other sites with reduced tree competition such as cliffs and slopes.

It is not considered an endangered species, but it is under threat in some areas with large deer populations. Deer find the soft evergreen foliage attractive for food and strip it quickly. The White Cedar is used in landscaping, log homes and for outdoor furniture, where its natural oils deter pests and mold.

Key Characteristics

Unique and Unusual Features

CHECKING
As it continues to dry and cure, Northern White Cedar normally will check or develop the cracks that help create the wood’s natural character. These are normal and natural processes in cedar and in no way affect the strength or durability of the furniture.

CEDAR OILS
While it dries, Northern White Cedar’s natural wood oils may develop a dust on the surface of the wood, which is the crystallization of the wood oils. This dust can be easily removed with a dry cloth.

WARPING
Occasionally, soft woods like cedar will warp slightly during transportation. Usually the warp goes away once the furniture has been assembled.

COMPARISONS WITH OTHER WOODS

White Cedar vs. White/Yellow Pine

White Cedar is blessed with natural preservatives, that make it one of the most decay/rot resistant and insect tolerant woods available. Checking/cracks will typically not penetrate the heartwood. Pine is not naturally resistant to rot or insects and require preservative treatments (arsenic is a common additive to pine boards to provide resistance). Pine cracks are common and more often penetrate the heartwoodl.

A University of Maine study looked at durability of wood species and found that untreated White Cedar had high natural durability (even with ground contact) with serviceability to 50-60 years. Untreated Pine, on the other hand, has a serviceable range of 3-7 years with ground contact.

Cedar typically has about 1/3 less moisture content when green than Pine. Cedar can be naturally air-dried in a short time, allowing the wood to acclimate itself to the new moisture level without harming its molecular structure. Pine, which tends to retain more moisture, requires additional kiln drying.

More Info and Links

For more info on Natural Cedar Furniture: www.oldadirondack.com For more info on the Cedar Species: forestry.about.com/library/tree/blntwh.htm

Finished or Not?

How to Stain Furniture

Natural Northern White Cedar is a fresh pale tan or light gold color.turns to a gray color over time. Water based or oil stains will delay the weathering process and latex paint coats evenly and lets the wood breathe.

TYPES OF FINISHES

Stains: Water-based stains will delay the weathering process, since they pnetrate the wood while allowing the wood to breathe. Outdoor products will usually require re-staining every year or so to maintain the desired look. While stains have traditionally allowed you to see grain through the tint, newer opaque stains provide a more solid color to furniture.

Paints: Paints provide a layer coat of color on furniture. When exposed to the elements for an extended period, paints can chip.

Polyurethanes: If using furniture where it will be exposed to rain and sun, you may desire to put a polyurethane finish on the furniture after it has been stained.

PREPARATION

The correct preparation helps the stain to adhere, given the wood’s porousness and reveal the wood’s grain. The product coverage depends on the wood’s porosity, grade and texture.

1. Read the label and instructions on the stain can label for specific information.
2. Use a drop cloth to protect any surfaces you many be working on. Work in a spacious, ventilated area.
3. When staining dowel ends, note that the ends are rougher and are usually darker in color. The rougher surfaces will wear down the sponge brushes sooner.
4. Separate parts of the furniture from the whole. For instance: remove any drawers from a dresser.
5. Sand the Furniture. Most unfinished pieces need additional fine sanding before staining. If the furniture has been in use or outside for a period of time before staining, it is best to lightly sand all surfaces before staining using a Sand Sponge. A Sand Sponge may be used on an unfinished product to smooth holes and remove stains or markings. ALWAYS SAND WITH THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD. Remove any loose wood fibers or dust.
6. Clean the Furniture. Use a Tack Cloth to remove excess wood dust.
7. Check the Stain Color. Use a piece of similar wood or find an "out of the way" spot on the furniture to test the stain to ensure the wood is absorbing it to attain the desired color. Let the stained sample dry and then inspect before continuing with the staining. Color cards and brochures can give you good approximations of color, but cannot duplicate exactly how a product will look on your particular product’s wood surface - only you can through experimentation.
8. Try to stain the furniture when temperatures range from 50° to 85° F. Humidity should be below 80%. Avoid staining outside during the hours of most intense sunlight. Direct sun coupled with a hot surface can cause stain to dry unevenly, affecting the finished look. If applying a water-base coating to wood that is hot to the touch, dampen with water to cool.
9. Do not apply stain to a product that has been recently outside in the rain. Water-soaked wood should dry out for 24 hours, so that it can absorb a stain properly. For best results, the product should also not be in rain for 24-48 hours after staining.
10. Do not over-stain. Wood pores are like a sponge. They can only absorb so much stain before becoming saturated, which may result in excess stain pooling on the wood surface and can weaken the product. Remove any stain drips or excess before they dry to make clean-up easier. Wet product can be cleaned up with fresh water in most cases. If product has dried, you may need to lightly sand the area and re-apply some stain as necessary.

STAINING STEPS

1. Stir your paint/stain. Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the "mud" so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up. To maintain an even color, stir the stain periodically during application.
2. Use a Foam Brush, stain the lower portions of the furniture first, working your way through the sides to the top. Stain can be applied in any direction, usually cross-grain first, but ending with the grain.
3. Stain one surface at a time. Stain the corners and uneven areas first, using a “full” brush to get full penetration. Then, spread the rest on the flat areas.
4. Let the wood dry (initial absorption takes about 15 minutes with a light coat).
5. Depending on the desired look, a second coat can be used to give a richer color depth and enhance the longevity of the stain. Use a Sanding Sponge to lightly touch up any rougher areas where you desire more stain to absorb before applying a second coat if desired. Remember to use a Wipe Cloth to remove any dust before applying a second coat of stain.

Brush tips:

1. Dampen the brush before use. Stain will be less likely to dry on the brush.
2. Don't overload a brush with stain. The application will be smoother and less wasteful.
3. Stain with the brush at 45-degree angle to maximize the bristle's surface area.
4. For a better finish, stain from the area just painted towards the unpainted area. This is called "wet to dry."
5. Dip the Foam Brush one-third of the way into the stain; any deeper will waste stain. Lightly tap the side of the brush on the inside of the can to remove excess stain.
6. If you need to stop for an hour or so, wrap the brush in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and put it in, the refrigerator so it does not dry out.
7. Before cleaning, remove remaining stain by stroking the brush back and forth on newspaper. Then, rinse out remaining stain from the brush.
8. As you stain each area, you may want to use a Wipe Cloth to wipe with the grain to carefully remove excess stain, then move to another area. With White Cedar which absorbs quickly, you will not likely need to heavily wipe the stained areas.

Enjoy!

Categories: Home Improvement | Do-It-Yourself | Decorating