Buying A Good Suit And Dress Shirt

Editor: jackflagstaff

Though society has become more casual, every man needs at least one good outfit for special occasions. This guide describes how to find that suit.

A GENTLEMAN'S WARDROBE; Part 1

By my English friend, Reginald, a Gentleman's Gentleman.

INTRODUCTION:

These days, one can almost wear anything, anytime. But that does not mean one should. Just because 21st Century society is more casual than previous generations, we have not cast aside all decorum. To be a gentleman, one must look, as well as act, the part. At weddings, funerals, job interviews, church services (for those so inclined), court appearances (as a witness, of course) and other such events, one is judged, rightly or wrongly, by one's dress -- and first impressions seldom change.

Clearly, a full dress wardrobe is something not to be acquired on a whim or a week, unless a sudden, substantial inheritance is involved. I shall, therefore, place in certain priority, the basic elements of a gentleman's wardrobe. If you will indulge me, I shall begin with the two most vital items:

THE SUIT:

Every man must have one 'complete kit,' as it is called -- a dress coat with matching trousers (a vest is an excellent addition, but entirely optional). These may be custom-tailored, but so few suits are custom-made these days, it is considered an unnecessary extravagance for most gentlemen.

The color, of course, is black. Solid black is not a necessity, unless you are an undertaker, a mortician, or a fellow of my profession. One can choose pinstripes, which are very thin, just wide enough to be seen but not noticed; chalk stripes, which are noticeable but not obvious and pencil stripes, which are obvious (and de rigueur if your living is made in an organized crime syndicate).

The material, of course, should be pure virgin wool. It has been said, "God created sheep so gentlemen may have good suits." While I am not qualified to comment on the theological ramifications of that statement, I am in agreement with the basic truth of the adage. A fine wool is obvious and nothing, except silk, can match its appearance. Unfortunately, silk is far too expensive and difficult to care for, unless one is fortunate enough to have a substantial legacy and someone like myself in service. Virgin wool refers to wool that is never been used or processed prior to its present incarnation. Recycled wool (called 'shoddy') is not very common these days, but why take the chance on purchasing inferior material?

A broadcloth, or heavier fabric, is preferred for winter suits, while tropical weight, of course, ascends in popularity every summer. Do be careful with tropical weigh fabrics, some unscrupulous manufacturers actually blend in synthetic fibers rather than purchase finer wools. Wools come in many varieties -- Super 120, Super 150, mohair, angora and so on. Frankly, any quality grade of wool is superior to wool blends or (excuse me) to polyester, so do not concern yourself too much with the details. The finer qualities are more expensive, so purchase the best you can afford, take care of it and you will be very happy together.

Next, there is the question of style. Several points occur: There is single breasted and double breasted. Double breasted is considered the more classic model (and especially appropriate when the wearer has seen Naval service) but single breasted is by far the more popular. I suppose one should ask himself do you wish to blend in or to stand out? There is also no-vent, single-vent and double vent -- the vent being the split in the back. A no-vent suit is rather uncomfortable if one does considerable sitting while wearing the suit jacket. Single versus double vent has no appreciable difference, except the double-vent would appear a bit fancier. The number of buttons on the jacket seem to be of great importance to some people -- there are those who deal only with one-button suits, others prefer two, three or four buttons. This is entirely a question of personal preference.

Certain specific styles were very popular in previous eras, the Prince Albert, the Frock coat, the zoot suit, for example. While exceptionally good ideas for Halloween or a costume ball, the wearing of styles which have been out of style for half a century or a century is likely to inspire more laughter than respect. Hardly the point of this exercise.

Two comments on length: The proper length for the sleeves is just beyond the wrist. Long enough not to look comical, yet short enough that the shirt cuff is visible (this is particularly important when the cuff is monogrammed, a subject for later discussion). The coat should extend a little blow the end of the thumb, when the gentleman is standing with arms hanging relaxed at his sides.

Of course, it is not a suit without matching trousers. You may choose between pleated or plain front trousers with cuffed or uncuffed legs. Pleated front and cuffed trousers have been more often in style than out, so that is generally the better choice from a fashion point of view. Plain and uncuffed are easier to press, if I may offer a suggestion from the perspective of the one who will be doing the pressing.

Generally, a suit has but one size number, the chest measurement of the wearer, plus long, regular or short, depending on one's height. The trousers are measured by 'drop,' that is, the number of inches dropped from chest to waist measurement. Commonly a 44-inch jacket may have a 6- or 8-inch drop, so the trousers will have a 36- or 38-inch waist. Good quality suit trousers are always unhemmed, to be fitted to the individual legs of the wearer, and a slight waist adjustment is also common at this juncture. (Said adjustment to be a "taking in," as they say, not a "letting out," of course.) Many retailers now offer suit separates -- jackets and trousers of the same color and style, but sold individually. Very useful if one is hard pressed to fit a traditional suit, either due to length or girth. Also valuable if the gentleman fancies a 2-pants suit -- a commendable idea, as the trousers will certainly wear out faster than the jacket.

If you wear the suit but once or twice a year, it will serve you (if I may say so) until and including the last time you need a good suit. Even if you wear it frequently, a quality ensemble should last until it is long out of style. {In which case, have it put carefully in storage. By the time your son is of age, it will doubtlessly be back in style.}

THE SHIRT:

Like the suit, silk is the finest material available for shirts, but, again, you will pay a great deal of money to obtain it and I will expend a great deal of effort caring for it and, therefore, it is not recommended.

Cotton is the accepted standard for gentlemen's dress shirts. Again, one may choose among various species -- American cotton is noted for its consistent quality, although Egyptian is popular for its additional luxury (oddly, so-called Egyptian cotton is also a native American species). You may hear the term 'Mercerized cotton'; such cotton is chemically treated to improve strength, luster and dye retention; all very desirable qualities. Weights vary from thin poplin to heavy broadcloth. Choose what is comfortable, of course, remembering that poplins may be more comfortable in warm weather, but broadcloths will last longer.

The color, of course, must be white -- plain white. For the office or the club or among friends, stripes or patterns of any kind are generally acceptable, but this is the one shirt saved for special occasions. A subtle pattern may be woven into the fabric, a 'white on white' shirt, it is sometimes called.

The collar is of some importance. There are a great many styles with minor variations in each, but they fall, essentially, into the short, the spread and the point. Tips of short collars extend just below the bottom of the collar -- the shortest are "wing-tips," the formal shirt paired with a tuxedo. Spread collars are long enough that they can have a fairly wide spread (3 inches or more) between the points, excellent when using the Windsor knot in your necktie. Point collars extend well below the bottom of the collar. Manufacturers sell and describe these in near infinite variations, so one must look carefully. There are also several specialty collars, the button-down, the tab and so on. Such details are of only passing interest, as long as the shirt is white and all cotton; you have achieved the highest level of traditional attire. You may congratulate yourself at some appropriate moment.

In warmer climates, wearing a short-sleeved dress shirt with a suit jacket is very popular. This is a trend to be resisted with every fiber of one's soul. The proper dress shirt is always long-sleeved, with a button cuff or a French cuff. The button cuff is the simpler -- a single layer with a button or two to hold it closed. I might add, at this point, that many men, young men mostly, forget this all important procedure -- button cuff shirts are so-called for a reason, please do not ignore this reason. A French cuff is long enough to fold double over the wrist; these clasp with a cufflink. As in suits, the button cuff is more popular, the French cuff more formal. For some -- bankers, lawyers, politicians and similar undesirable elements of society -- the French cuff is deemed almost a necessity. Again, perhaps the simplest question is do you wish to blend in or to stand out? The French cuff does have the added expense of buying several pairs of cuff links (no one, to paraphrase an old potato chip commercial, can wear just one) but this is generally viewed as a positive -- an opportunity to show off one's profession, hobby, political affiliation or some other personality point.

Shirts can, as mentioned, also be monogrammed. A monogram is simply the wearer's initials embroidered onto the shirt. The traditional placement is above the shirt pocket. Placement on the left shirt cuff is probably the second most common. For the younger generation, a monogram is often viewed as unnecessary ostentation. Among the older generation, a monogram can be very useful; for the extremely forgetful, having one's initials close at hand can serve as a convenient reminder.

CARING FOR THE CLOTHING:

A good suit should be dry-cleaned after each five uses or thereabouts. If this is a once or twice a year ensemble, dry clean it after each use and left in the bag provided or placed in a suit bag while in storage.

Shirts can be home laundered, of course, and a good ironing takes just a few minutes (at least, when one has as much practice as I have had). But, as this will be the shirt for the most important occasions, I would recommend taking it to the dry cleaners for a professional launder and press after each use. Like the suit, it should be left in the bag until needed.

If you will follow these simple suggestions, you will be a very impressive (dare I say 'sartorial'?) sight whenever a formal occasion comes across your calendar. Next, I shall share a few observations on accoutrements -- ties, shoes, and so on.

Until then, cheerio, and dress well!

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